Anita's Handcrafted Jewelry
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JEWELRY PARTIES, ANYONE?
Back in the 60's and 70's, I don't know how many Home Interior, Tupperware,
and Mary Kay parties I attended, and hosted! It seemed to be what the young
mothers, in my group of friends anyway, did for fun! But I have yet
to attend my first jewelry party. So, if anyone in or around
Canton, TX is having one, I'd love an invitation!
Email Me
Wire Notes:
Unless stated otherwise, the wire used in all my silver wire pieces is 99% pure solid copper wire plated with 99.99% pure fine silver, then clear coated to prevent tarnishing.
The tarnish resistant
gold wire is top quality non tarnishing silver plated copper wire.
The antique copper is 99.9% pure copper wire made to look like true antique
copper wire, without tarnishing.
Non tarnishing shiny copper wire pieces are made from a clear coated non tarnishing copper wire.
Lavender Soap Recipe
Soap making equipment needed:
Rubber gloves
Glasses
Mixing cup
Large plastic ½-gallon container
Stainless steel pot or large bowl
Stainless steel long handled spoon
Plastic or wooden long handled spoons
Two candy thermometers
Hand blender
Suitable mold (I prefer flexible plastic)
Cutter of choice
Ingredients:
32 oz. vegetable shortening
24 oz. coconut oil
8 oz. sweet almond oil
2 oz. cosmetic beeswax
3-5 tablespoons lavender pure essential oil (You can
substitute scent if you prefer; sometimes I use peppermint essential oil. I
also like patchouli scented soap).
10 oz. Red Devil 100% Lye
4 cups cold water
Instructions:
Mix lye with water, stirring with plastic or wooden spoon until all lye particles are dissolved. Put aside in a safe place and allow it to cool down to 150 degrees F. Be very careful, this solution is hot! I recommend wearing rubber gloves and glasses during the entire soapmaking process.
Melt oils and beeswax together in a large stainless still container, and heat to 160 degrees F.
When lye and oils are at the correct temperatures, pour the lye water slowly and carefully into the oils, stirring continuously. You will see changes taking place in the mixture. Tracing begins in 2-4 minutes. I use a hand blender, and it begins tracing almost immediately.
Note: Tracing is a soapmaking term describing the texture of the soap when it has saponified. Saponification is the process that turns oil and lye water into something else entirely—soap. Soap that has traced looks a little like thin pudding.
When the soap is in this light tracing stage, add scent, and blend well.
Note: Be sure, if substituting fragrance oil, that the oil is compatible with soapmaking. Otherwise, it will cause the batch to separate or curdle. Certain essential oils may cause the same. Research soapmaking oils, and learn the difference in pure essential oils, and fragrance oils.
Pour into your mold quickly; the soap thickens rapidly at this point. Allow it to set in the mold for 24 hours. I cover my mold during this period. If you have difficulty removing the soap from your mold, you can place it in the freezer for a few hours, and it will pop out nicely. I have had to do that with other recipes, but never with this one.
Aging time is about 3 weeks. Cut and package. Be creative, and enjoy! You will love the rich lather, wonderful fragrance, and gentle qualities of this delicate soap. It is the perfect facial soap.